Arcachon

Oysters, Villas and Quiet Charm

It’s early morning in Arcachon, and the market is already alive. Not in a frantic way, but in the kind of rhythm only seaside towns seem to master - slow, steady, purposeful. With a local guide leading the way, I weave through the stalls: plump oysters straight from the Bassin, goat cheese that crumbles at the edges and sun-warmed peaches that taste like summer in one bite.  

A short walk brings me to the Thiers jetty, where I board a traditional wooden pinasse - a long, low boat that’s part of the region’s DNA. We drift out across the Bassin d’Arcachon. The views stretch from the forested Cap Ferret peninsula to the vast, shifting Dune du Pilat. Lunch is served on board: wine from nearby vineyards, anchovies, cheese, bread, more oysters. It all tastes better somehow with the boat rocking gently beneath us. 

Back on dry land, a walking tour through town becomes a kind of edible history lesson: nutty cheeses here, old-fashioned sweets there, all paired with local wines. We pause to admire the 19th-century villas, built when Arcachon was a fashionable escape for wealthy Parisians. Some are ornate, others crumbling, but each with a je ne sais quoi charm. 

In the afternoon, I rent a bike and follow the coastline. Arcachon has over 27km of cycle paths, most of them flat and shaded by pine trees. The ride from the marina to Moulleau is breezy and peaceful. Along the way, I pass elegant Belle Époque homes and empty stretches of beach. By the time I reach Pereire, the sun is low and the Cap Ferret lighthouse glows in the distance. A cold glass of white wine on a beachside terrace feels entirely earned. 

In the morning, I join a wellness cruise on another pinasse, this time for a slow float and some guided yoga as we pass the cabanes tchanquées and Île aux Oiseaux. It’s equal parts surreal and soothing. 

If you climb into Ville d’Hiver, the old hilltop quarter, you’ll find even more of Arcachon’s storied roots. The villas are grander here, and the Sainte-Cécile belvedere offers a panoramic view across the bay. The town recently joined France’s network of Villes Impériales - a nod to its Second Empire history, still intricately alive.  

Stay at the Hôtel Ville d’Hiver, former waterworks turned into a quietly luxurious boutique stay. For dinner, L’Écume offers panoramic views and seafood with flair; Fleur des Pins serves forest-inspired dishes like beef tataki with strawberries. Neither disappoints.